Rome was the first stop on our multi-city whirlwind tour of Italy. And as you know, I am a planner and a list-maker so of course I did my research. And what can I say, Rome is a complicated place... At first I wanted to title this post, "Everything they say about Rome is true." But I don't want to lump Rome into one big stereotype. So I'll just say...... a lot of what they say about Rome is true!
Outside the Capitoline Museum
Rule #1: Drivers in Rome are insane.
We learned this fairly quickly after we arrived. Enzo came to pick us up at the airport and drive us to our apartment. And this is where we learned that:
- Lanes are merely suggestions for where one should drive one's car.
- If there is room for your car then you may drive there even if it means crossing two lanes of traffic and cutting off a bus. Enzo drove smack dab in the middle of two lanes for the duration of our trip.
- There are huge intersections with no traffic signals, no lanes, no order and yet there are no crashes and no people leaning out their Fiat windows cursing at each other:
- You can park anywhere. Even if it isn't a real parking space. Even if your car is going the wrong direction.
- Scooter drivers in Rome are even more insane. By virtue of owning a scooter it is perfectly legal to weave in and out of traffic and ignore all rules of the road.
Rule #2: Walk aggressively.
If you wait for some polite driver to let you cross a busy thoroughfare then you will wait a looooooooong time. You can spot newbie tourists stepping tentatively off the curb at busy intersections, trying not to get ran over by maniac scooter drivers. But, alas, we were stepping out in front of double decker busses like the locals in no time.
Rule #3: Pay attention to your money.
There are many ways to become separated from one's money in Rome and many people who will gladly separate you from it. Here's the scenario: we were excited- there are freakin' ancient ruins right next to the ice cream place- do you believe it?! There is a bright red Vespa scooter outside too- how quaint! We're eating gelato in Italy- woo hoo! Four gelatos later we were FIFTY DOLLARS lighter. Watch out for hidden charges and checks that aren't itemized.
The Colosseum
Rule #4: Everybody goes on strike.
Strikes usually occur a few times a month and, strangely enough, most are planned ahead of time. Everyone from garbage workers, taxi drivers, public transportation and, in our case, workers at the Colosseum.
The Vatican
Rule #5: Rome is overwhelming.
Everything is big. Everything is old. Everything is fast. Pace yourself and trust me, don't forget to bring band-aids for all the blisters you're going to get.
Trevi Fountain
Gladiators waitng for their photo op at the Colosseum
Rule #6: Beware the pushy gladiator.
And the pushy scarf guy, rose guy, cheesy plastic lighted reindeer antler headband guy. It begins to feel like everyone wants to sell you something.
Rule # 7: Schedules are...flexible.
I don't know how many times we asked a shopkeeper/restaurant person/tour operator when they close and they said, "Ummmm....... about..... 4:15." Not 4pm. Not 4:30. Not even a confident, definitive declaration of, "4:15!" No, there is definite contemplation going on here.
And schedules can be odd: we're closed Mondays, open 11-3 on Wednesdays, 9-4 on Thursdays, 10-2 on all other days. Except Saturdays.
Rule #8: Everyone in Rome dresses better than you do.
Wear black and you're doing okay. Wear stiletto boots and you're doing much better. Wear black and stiletto boots and smoke and you'll pass as a local.
Rule #9: Don't go in the summer.
I guess I can't officially tell you not to go in the summer because I went in December but I did hear from many a local that the crowds are much tamer in the winter months. Going in December definitely had its advantages but we lucked out- it only rained twice in our 17 days- not usual!
Rule #10: You'll either love it or hate it.
This I heard a lot so I was pretty prepared to hate Rome. "It's too crowded." "My wallet was pick pocketed." "I was almost ran over by a bus."
But we actually liked Rome quite a bit. Being that it wasn't raining, there weren't scores of people everywhere and we didn't get anything stolen outright (not counting our overpriced gelato that should have come with a complimentary scooter for that price) All in all we had a great time!
p.s. I hope you don't expect anything other that Italy posts for the next month because I have about 1300 photos to go...
